A tale of a forgotten land…



Although I was too young to remember things but I still have memories of those golden days. The all crowded houses and known faces; mirth in voices; spark on the faces and merriment all around. The echoing of continued prayers and the buzz of the visiting pilgrims. The late night market lights and the flocking of people made it sure that life awoke till midnight. The lightened up streets which otherwise were congested because of their narrowness provided us a lot of space to play. And how can I forget the long waited weekends when all children used to play together games and sing aloud songs of joy.  It would have been same I guess but the incident of 1995 turned it around.
Life has come all way since then, the per-capita income of families has gone up; poverty line declined; more vehicles on roads; DTH antennas on the roof of every house; the talk of modems and data cards and not to forget the small box in everybody’s hand. For me also everything seemed to be heading in the right direction. When I used to compare my land with other nearby areas or other non-urban areas I always felt proud about having good roads, power supply, water supply and among other things a good literacy rate. I was happy in my own way but with the passing time I realized that nothing was good at all. Age and books bring knowledge and wisdom, I believe. A peeping look in the history revealed facts that were hidden to me. I realised that the land has not only a religious importance but historical also. Even though the fact remains that the history of Charar-I-Sharief doesn’t date back to about 2000 Years or more as the history of Srinagar, yet one should admit the fact that Charar-I-Sharief had its inhabitants even before the coming of Hazrat Sheikh (RA) This makes Charar-I-Sharief a historically important Sub-Urb area. Charar-I-Sharief as an area got blessed, when Hazrat Sheikh (RA) chose it as his final resting place. No one can deny the fact the “Chaar-waen” would never had become “Charar-I-Sharief” if Hazrat Sheikh (RA) had chosen any other area.
I don’t think there is any need to introduce Hazrat Sheikh`s (RA) here. Every Kashmiri believes that Hazrat (RA) was a blessing of Allah unto the people of Kashmir. He is Taj-ul-Awliyai Kashmir (Crown of Kashmiri Saints), Alamdar-I-Kashmir (Flag bearer of the people of Kashmir), Shiekh-Ul-Alam, Noor-Ud-Din, Nund-Reshi and what not. He taught Islam in its purest and simplest way to the people of Kashmir. My elders always remarked that on the day of judgement when Allah will ask Kashmiri “Why haven’t you done what I ordered you in THE QURAN?” They will say, “We couldn`t read Quran as it was in Arabic”. Allah will say “You are making an excuse; I had sent a saint unto you who translated my book in your locale to make it easy for you to understand”. It will take me a volume of books to write about the introduction of this Saint of God. Nonetheless one should not forget that his presence in the area of Charar-I-Sharief made it a centre of excellence and an important religious destination even in the life of Hazrat Sheikh (RA).
            Thus we come to a fact that Charar-I-Sharief has got both historical and religious importance. Yet a visit to this land will give you a different flavour. I am not a propounder of regionalism yet one has to feel for such an important land which was supposed to be the “Model Town” in Kashmir as promised by Mr Jagmohan. I as a resident of Charar-I-Sharief don’t want any special favours but at least I should get what I deserve. I have witnessed people who say that there was nothing in Charar-I-Sharief before 1995. But the history tells a different tale. Hazrat Sheikh (RA) in his life time made Charar-I-Sharief a centre of his activities where he would assign duties to different saints asking them to visit different places to preach Islam. Khanqah-e-Faizfanah was established in the times of Hazrat Sheikh (RA). Charar-I-Sharief had the first Higher Secondary School in the whole Budgam district. Students as far as from Chanapora were rolled in this institution. It remained a centre of education for decades all together. Due to its Religious importance Charar-I-Sharief remains a centre of attraction for millions of people round the year. Not only Muslims, Hindus and people from other religions came to pay their homage to this great saint.
But since 1995 when the whole world has been developing at a fast pace and India at a faster pace Charar-I-Sharief seemed to have taken a reverse gear. The higher secondary remained the same when primary schools of other areas where graded up to colleges. The hospital has the same capacity for decades all together. The accident prone road remained a single way even though every year we hear the same phrase of “Road Widening.”  To add to its trouble the road which connects Charar-I-Sharief with Srinagar is often closed because the bridge is not ready or there is strike on water supply or there is a quarrel between two families or a hen was crushed by a lorry! The power supply is something not to be talked about. What is the fun of providing a 24x7 line for the shrine when the people living nearby don’t even get 7x7. The streets which once where lightened up are dark and fearful. The drainage system is in drains and the local municipal committee is busy in collecting money from the buses and cars. The public transportation (SRTC) which once was a major means of transportation for the people of Charar-I-Sharief, ply ones in a day and that too when a bus is available, when at hundreds students are going to their colleges daily. This has resulted in a kind of monopoly of Sumo drivers, the people are helpless to board these Sumos and pay triple fare as compared to the bus services to reach their destinations. Though the number of vehicles in the bus stand has gone up exponentially yet the bus stand remains the same. To add to its problems the vehicles don`t have a permanent bus stop at Srinagar (Even when an area around Iqbal Park is still remembered as Chaar-Ada), this makes the passengers to run for the vehicles at Iqbal Park Srinagar and due to this problem the sumo drivers are reluctant to visit Srinagar after the dusk leaving hundreds of people stranded in the city each day.
Leave the facilities to the locals aside, people who visit the town face difficulties. The open spaces are no places to stay in winters. No proper arrangement of washrooms and rest rooms add to the headache. There is not a single hotel in Charar-I-Sharief, whereas if one goes to Ajmer or Mata Vishnu Devi there are hotels and many hotels around. I should say the Government has failed to portray Charar-I-Sharief as a religious-tourism site. These are the reasons that to me are enough to answer the question of declining pilgrims to the land. If you can’t make a local pilgrim happy so that he can have happy memories about the place why do you think of foreigners to visit the land again?
I don’t know the reason behind this. They say change is necessary and the land hasn`t changed. May be the caretaker of the land wasn’t changed as and when required. May be giving a person more than 30 years for caretaking, without results, was a reason. May be the people of the land themselves are the reason for the pathetic plight of their homeland as they never demanded their rights and never raised their voices. But he question still remains unanswered and the blessed land is longing for the rain of renewal that can bring back its lost charm.

اپنے اجڑے آشیاں کی داستاں ہم نے کہی 
     پھر گلا کرنا نہ ہم  سےکہ تم وقت پہ بولے نہیں.....
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3 comments:

  1. You have raised a really fastidious issue. Our town has been abandoned and regardless of of the fact that all of us know it, still we can’t help. I am myself observing it from past 20 years and there has been not a single change that could have benefited us. Hope our future caretakers would try to fill up the left loopholes.

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